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Posts posted by IamOakley
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Here's my theory.
As a lifelong sci-fi addict, I will watch even the most cringe-worthy science fiction flicks. But this year, there have been so many good sci-fi titles that are just crazy cinematic, I [almost] can't watch them all.
I recently had the pleasure of speaking to Salvatore Totino about DPing 65. (You can read the article on SonyCine here.) Totino is a wonderful human, and 65 is gorgeous, shot on Sony VENICE and Hawk V-lite anamorphics.
Totino mentioned that once he decided on the Hawk anamorphics, he knew he had to shoot Sony VENICE. Because anamorphics are slower, and he didn't have a ton of lights in the middle of the 65 swamp, he NEEDED the Sony VENICE dual ISO. So I started wondering, because the sci-fi realm is often characterized by the aesthetic of anamorphic, is the increase in visual innovation in the genre linked in part to Sony's dual ISO letting DPs use anamorphics with less restrictions, lighting and otherwise?
Here's three good examples:
- 65: DP Salvatore Totino, Sony VENICE + Hawk V-lite anamorphics
- Andor: DP Adriano Goldman, Sony VENICE + Panavision anamorphics
- The Man Who Fell to Earth: DP Tommy Maddox-Upshaw, Sony VENICE + Panavision G Series anamorphics
Anyone have opinions on this?
If anyone has any other sci-fi titles to add that I should look into, please share.
I'm also dying to find someone who has shot a sci-fi, short or feature, on FX9, FX6, or FX3. If you know of anything, let me know!
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Haha @LensMeAHand you are officially the grandmaster of the vintage Sony camera field test. (OK, not that 2016 is crazy vintage but still.)
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Hey Nezih, glad you made it!
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Somehow, it looks more vintage than 2008! And I have to say like the look way better than a lot of the mid 2000s cameras.
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Handy! Would this also work for external NDs or just in-camera?
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Nice work matching!
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Haha it’s pretty awful really—50 ft of wires and boxes dragging behind the camera. I’m trying to consolidate the setup, but the DXC-M3A will always be dragging around some form of ball and chain
😂Please take BTS pics!
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Sounds like a solid plan re: SLog3 and Canon Log 2. What lenses will you be using? It could be worth doing a lens test if ya have time to see if any have color shifts that will make it a PITA to match. @LensMeAHand did a lens test with photo lenses that you can see here, and the Canon photo lens has a noticeable blue shift.
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Dang, I'm laughing thinking of what this camera->converters->wires-> laptop is going to look like on set. Really keen to see what the short film looks like with your 80s Sony-frankencam.
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Hey Jason, going off what Doug said, @alisterchapman has a useful breakdown on syncing here. He's on these forums, so he may chime in himself! As he points out, and I'm sure you'd be doing, make sure you're using the frame rates on both cameras. 🤖
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Watch Andor! One of the best things to come out of Star Wars. Very cinematic to help you recover 🙂
OK I now have only one episode left. It really is beautiful and the storytelling is incredibly well done. Thanks for the rec!
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I'm working on a project that's intended to play on a very large (somewhere near 100 ft x 25 ft) curved cylindrical screen. Because of the size, the consensus is that 24FPS will look too juddery on such a big, immersive screen. Some of the team is keen on shooting and delivering in 60FPS. However, I'm worried about the consistent thing where audiences hate high frame rates because of the perceived 'soap opera' effect. I am currently suggesting 48FPS. Basically, I liked how Avatar: The Way of Water employed both 24FPS and 48FPS throughout the film. (And it helped with me a LOT with 3D motion sickness that I usually get.) Audiences don't seem to even notice as far as I can tell. My thinking is, maybe Avatar is setting the stage for more 48FPS content?
Are any of your currently delivering in higher frame rates like 48, 60FPS? Or do you have a personal opinion on how it looks? Did you notice it in Avatar?
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Hi Steven, I'm glad to hear you like my launch videos. They are certainly fun to shoot.
All my cameras have excellent electronic viewfinders, so external monitors are not needed . . . or wanted. I've never used monitors on any camera I've ever shot with and never will! 🙂 There is no substitute for a good EVF.
Curious, with four cameras (and four and EVFs) what's your strategy for focus?
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Very excited to watch this.
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If you wanted to get it cleaned (say the the sensor) professionally, what are your recommendations for how to choose where to send it?
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Thanks for explaining what can be an angst-inducing process (for me). Good to know how Alister himself does it!
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Looks great. Love the first still, color reminds me of the Judy-becomes-Madeleine shot in Vertigo.
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Nice rig, nice breakdown! I don't know if I missed this in there, but how would you use this configuration for handheld?
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I’m stuck at home with COVID (through the worst of it, luckily) and I’m in need of some good shows to watch while I recover. I’m thinking I could learn from a show with either really beautiful lighting OR with something interesting going on lighting-wise.
A good example of what I mean by interesting lighting (and show I’ve already binged all of) is Kevin Can F**k Himself. Each episode is half multi-cam sitcom (with a laugh track!) and half sorta indie single-cam drama. Both worlds have distinct lighting, and without any spoilers, Season 2 has some REALLY cool dramatic moments that are delivered almost entirely by lighting changes between them. (The final episode in particular!) You can read an interview with DP Shannon Madden we did a few months ago here. I thought it was really clever, and it made me think about how lighting can not only set the tone and look, but motivate the story as well.
Have you seen anything you’d recommend for me to binge watch, and get lighting inspiration from while I’m at it? Either that’s interesting, innovative, or just plain beautiful?
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The brightness of the Aurora varies immensely. One moment it can be dim, low contrast and barely visible and 30 seconds later it can be bright enough to cast shadows on the ground with great contrast. Additionally the location I go to tends to have extremely dark skies as it is well away from any city lights or other light pollution. Plus, when it is very cold (and it normally is -20c or colder) the air becomes very clear, so contrast increases and this is a big, big help.
There is no one magic setting for every Aurora. Generally most of the Aurora footage was shot with the FX3 with the 24mm f1.4 GM as having a second base ISO of 12,800 in S-Log3 is highly beneficial and contrary to what I would normally do, adding a bit of gain in camera by going to 25600 using the flexible ISO mode proved useful. As the Aurora doesn't move very, very fast you can get away with a 1/12th or 1/15th shutter. When the Aurora is dim it also tends to be moving much slower. So, rather than increasing the ISO still further or adding ever more post production gain I will use S&Q and lower the frame rate, perhaps using 8 frames per second and a 1/8th shutter and then return this to normal speed in post with a bit of subtle frame blending. When shooting the Aurora I am constantly tuning the camera settings to the way the Aurora is behaving and how bright it is while shooting. The tips of my fingers suffer every year from constantly touching the extremely cold camera controls. It's like repeatedly touching a red hot surface.
In post production I do add noise reduction as without it the images would be noisy without it and there will be some grading to provide the best looking image. In the past when I shot mostly time-lapse with longer exposures, I tended to go for a more vivid look, but recently I have dialled things back a lot as I wish to give a more true to life representation of how the Aurora actually looks when you see it in person.
The final factor is time outside. As the aurora comes and goes, often quite quickly, you have to spend the time outside with the cameras setup and ready to go in order to not miss the brightest flare ups. These are often short lived and it is all too easy to miss them if you stay inside and just pop out occasionally. So, that means long periods standing and waiting in the cold. In the early part of January, up in Northern Norway it was dark enough to see the Aurora between 3pm and 9am and each night I would be outside for around 11 to 12 hours at a time, but possibly only shooting for a couple of hours during that period. Then do that for 2 or 3 weeks at a location with very clear skies and you have a chance of getting some great footage.Super interesting! Especially to hear about the shutter you can get away with during the Aurora. Thank you. Hope your fingertips are recovered!
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The disappointment equation. 😅
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Forgot to link to the macro adapters I used, here. Although many other good options exist!
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Gorgeous, mesmerizing! I am wondering, when you were shooting on either the FX3 in CineEI mode at 12,800 or the FX30 at 2500, did you do anything special with the EI setting? Seems like you have dark sky and bright aurora, and wondering what the best practice is here, because it looks lovely.
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SpaceX stakeout, looks like fun! Do you find you want to have timecode sync in a shooting situation like this? Or does that not apply here?
Gone but not Forgotten: the Sony Action Cam
in Gear
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Also, what's your source for getting all these vintage bodies?